The Earliest History of the Yukon Harbor Region.

18 02 2008

The Northwest portion of what is now the United States of America was one of the last territories to be explored and settled. The influence of trappers, settlers and other white cultures took many years to gain a foothold, especially in the far reaches of the inland waters around what would eventually become Seattle.

To say that Englishman George Vancouver “discovered” the Puget Sound area in the late 1700’s is an absurd claim, because in fact there were dozens of Native American tribes inhabiting the region. Those histories are only faintly recorded, and we leave the accounts of pre-European presence in the waters, islands, and natural harbors of Puget Sound for another website and another time. The Yukon Harbor Historical Society, for now at least, will concentrate its efforts on European and American cultures in the region.

An aerial view of Yukon Harbor, 2006.

Yukon Harbor today is situated between Richie Point (top center) and Southworth ( just outside of the image, lower right) with Curley Creek feeding Puget Sound with freshwater (lower left). Colby, now a faint memory, was located half a mile north of the creek’s mouth, and South Colby is in the foreground center. Bainbridge Island is shown in the upper right corner of this veiw.

Captain Vancouver, commanding HMS Discovery, first entered the expansive channels and waterways he would eventually play a part in naming in 1792. He anchored near the Southeastern point of what is now Bainbridge Island, then spent the next few months charting Sinclair Inlet and the nearby coastlines. He and his crew met and traded with several of the native tribes, who welcomed the Englishmen.

Of course, the West Coast of the North American continent was completely untouched by whites, and the fledgling United States of America consisted of barely more than the original thirteen states and a few “territories” surrounding the Mississippi River. It wasn’t until 1841, when the United States Exploring Expedition (aka, The Wilkes Expedition) returned to the region, that any significant exploration took place. At the time, the entire region was known as Oregon Territory, and it was nothing more than a raw wilderness rich with natural resources. The Wilkes party followed Vancouver’s charts to navigate and survey the resources of the region. They labeled what is today known as Yukon Harbor “Barron’s Bay” and Blakes Island.

This, essentially, marked the start of the Oregon Territory era, when the whole of the farthest reaches of the Louisiana Purchase were one territory. That ended when local businessmen and politicians petitioned the United States government to create a separate Washington Territory in 1853. The movement toward statehood began just a few years later, but the path proved long and tumultuous. Oregon was admitted to the union in 1859, but Washington remained largely a wilderness until 1889. The result of all this is that the Western Side of Puget Sound had only scattered, informal communities and infrastructures.

Just a few years after the Wilkes Expedition surveyed the area, the gold rush boom in Northern California made the tremendous forests and ore deposits of Puget Sound an extremely valuable commodity, so local economies boomed on the coattails of the lumber industry. Dozens of mill towns — typically, reached solely by sailing ship or steamer — popped up all along the many natural harbors. These included Colby, South Colby, and Sidney.

These towns were generally fluid, following the resources while they lasted. As the thick forests were cleared, the mills — and the supporting general merchandise stores, blacksmiths, and steamship companies that supported them — moved on. The economy of these communities was tied to the natural resources, and in may cases that tie was tenuous, at best.

The Native American Tribes, meanwhile, were overtaken and overwhelmed by the Westerners. They were no match for the huge influx of homesteaders and the military presence that came with them.

From the very outset it became clear that the Puget Sound region carried more than just abundant natural resources; it had strategic military value, as well. There were many protected anchorages — hundreds, in fact — and yet the huge land masses to the West prevented any antagonist from bombarding from the open sea. Placement of a handful of forts in the main channels would make it virtually impossible to attack from the sea because any attacking force would have to “run a gauntlet” through the long narrow passages.

By 1880, efforts were underway to secure at least one major naval base here.  After several failed attempts, construction of a shipbuilding facility and Navy Yard began in 1891 at Turner Point (Bremerton). It became known as the Puget Sound Naval Station. The presence of the Navy and the shipbuilding industry gave the region a permanent economic base. Beyond the small mills, mines, and fishing communities, now full-fledged cities began to develop. Port Orchard (Sidney), Manchester (Brooklyn) became established towns, taking over what Colby, South Colby and Harper had begun. Western civilization was here to stay in the Washington Territory, with statehood soon to follow.

–RN.


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7 responses

4 03 2008
Johanna Baxter

I actually live in South Colby, and have lived here since I
was little. My parents own a strip of land that has railroad tracks, and an old piece of some sort of docking on the beach. We used to always think that there was some sort of either ironworking or shipbuilding going on on this stretch of beach, but couldn’t be sure.

I know that Herdmans dock to the right of me used to be one of the stops for the Mosquito fleet, or at least that’s what we were told as kids. The dock in its current state doesn’t stretch out too far. However, there’s pilings out in the harbor that could support this theory.

Those pilings, when I was little, used to be where Mr Totten (who lived down the road) would hang crabpots and get crab each spring/summer.

I don’t know if she still lives here or not, but my old neighbor used to be Marbeth Powell, who was related to General John Sedgwick, who the junior high was named after, and I’m assuming the actual road as well.

She was a great person to talk to and learn about history of this area from. My neighbor and I (who also grew up here in South Colby, my parents bought their land a long time ago from her parents…the land to the left of my parents was bought by the current owners from her
grandparents as she tells the story) remember much of the old neighborhood of South Colby, and some of the people who were absolutely amazing.

I came across your site, in an attempt to learn more about the South Colby grange. It’s been sitting at the top of Harvey for many years, unattended and I wanted to learn more history about it…more than just the little tidbits we passed back and forth as kids, or just the insane fear it had ghosts because it had been boarded up for so many years.

I don’t have any ancient pictures of the area, from pioneer times and such. I can just tell you memories that I know as a 38 year old who grew up in the area. However, I do admittedly share your passion in telling the history of this area to whomever will listen, because it’s quite interesting for sure. I know, even for me growing up here, I was
so lucky to live in the area I did/currently do.

My parents’ sailboat is still moored right out here in the harbor, and I’m so lucky to watch over it daily.

I love research, and digging for information and pictures and history. If there’s something I can do to help, please do let me know. I’d love to help out where I can.

4 03 2008
Russell Neyman

Johanna, welcome to the effort to retrace the forgotten history of Yukon Harbor! We’re hoping that your comment here will draw some attention from others who know a little about South Colby and the subjects you mentioned. We, too, find the Old Grange Building a sad but fascinating site. Maybe people who visit the site will recall something and be able to send along additional notes and insights.

We hope to have a get-together along the beachfront this summer — perhaps a Fourth of July picnic — when we can all sit around and swap stories about the area’s history.

RN

30 07 2008
Kaye McTaggart Gomes

Great Historical Website — I’m from a little later
era – but looking back 1957 was quite a while ago
although it seems like only yesterday…

I grew up on Banner Road in South Colby from 1952 until 1963 when we moved to Southworth. We were the McTaggart Family – Bob,Doris,Kaye, Barry, Joan, Tom, Janis & Mary Ann.

We were all thrilled to attend the brand new South Colby School in 1958. Only 5 classrooms! No cafeteria or gym. Students I remember are Eddie Breitenstein, Dennis Budd, Brian Barker, Susan Swan, Linda Rosendahl, Dewey Steadman, Pudge Wiley.

The old South Colby Grange hall was used for
dances and other community events.
In high school I played keyboards in a Rock and Roll Band “The Fanatics”. Remember “Louie Louie” “Night Train” “House of the Rising Sun”? Ron Burley of Southworth was our lead singer. The Grange Hall dances were attended by all ages and were very fun. The hall was also used by the Cub Scouts for their ceremonies and potlucks.

South Colby Store & Post Office was a magnet for us kids. We would ride our bikes to the store and buy penny candy from the glass case. Mr & Mrs._____were always very patient with us as we took our time deciding whether we wanted a coconut rainbow, piece of licorice,red wax lips,sunflower seeds or bubblegum.

At that time the Harper Dock was the operating ferry
dock and if a storm was coming in you’d see log booms anchored in the South Colby harbor.

The McTaggart kids have many stories to tell – We had so much fun with the Jeanette & Bob Fox, Peterson’s, and Kathy & Jack Anderson waterskiing in the bay and motorboating to the San Juan Islands in the summer on our infamous camping trips.
In 1963 we moved from Banner Road to our beach house on Nokomis Road in Southworth. Rosie Atkinson was our neighbor. Her nickname was “Biscuit Burner” and she had hung on her kitchen wall proof of that! A
Pan of Burnt Biscuits lovingly nailed to the wall!
Rowing to Blake Island in our “whale boat”, the $1,000,000 fishing derby, the rescue of Rex, our
German Shepherd, the dolphin in our bathtub – all
stories that we’ll never forget growing up in that
wonderful place on Puget Sound.

30 07 2008
Joan McTaggart Davis

The owners of the South Colby store were Buford and Pauline Sicks, and they also ran the South Colby Post Office in the same building, and lived there also.

12 08 2008
Thomas R. Van Wyck

Interesting. I just read Horwitz’s ‘Blue Latitudes’ and was interested in other explorers of the area. A short trot from my front door at Grand Ave.park is a huge granite monument with a bronze plaque commemorating Vancouver’s landing on the beach below June 14, 1792. The Everett Navy Homeport occupies this area, homeport of the USS Abraham Lincoln.

The monument has fascinated me for years along with other maritime treasures. The ‘Equator’, made famous by Robert Louis Stenenson lies mouldering nearby. Its restoration one of my failed pursuits. Oh well!

Enjoyed your article very much.

Thomas

4 12 2008
hannie

Growing up, I knew Buford and Pauline Sicks. I loved them both dearly and saw them daily as my parents had a po box in South Colby (still do, as do I, but it’s in the new building by Evergreen Lumber). I have pictures of the old Post office and store as it was when I was little (I’m 39) and can forward to Russell. I miss Buford and Pauline, they were incredible and gracious people that I have had the opportunity to meet and spend time with. Just the other day, I was with Jack and Kathy Anderson, as I had to borrow Jack to see if we could fix something my loving parent did (he thought he could drive into the harbor, who knows?) and I helped Jack around the property to see what my parent did (he laughed and both Jack and Kathy agreed I should never let said parent behind the wheel of any automobile again) but during the summer, I would play with and swim with their grandsons. Their father and mother I know personally.

Last but not least, those log booms are the first thing I look for when the clouds start turning gray. To this day, they still anchor past my parents sailboat should a storm come rolling through, and I’ve taught both children to look for them and why they are there. :) Thank you for sharing the memories, and I’ll run your name past Jack and Kathy when I see them again (which is soon, because one of their sons is coming home for the holidays, and he’d be all sorts of upset with me if I didn’t put in at least one guest appearance to say hello…heh)

24 06 2009
Lara

What a wonderful site this is! I too grew up in South Colby, our property was right behind the Sick’s and next door to the Nelson’s house. My grandparents lived on the same property, Elizabeth (Zubie) and Ben Johnson, my step father is Bill Johnson. Hannie and I grew up down the beach from each other.
It is unfortunate that we can’t reopen the grange hall. It would really be a thrill to actually see inside the building.

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